
Fitzroy and Collingwood
Inner Suburbs with a Seedy History
Fitzroy and Collingwood have a unique character. They are home to artists in lofts and families in old houses, factories and wonderful restaurants. Brunswick Street is one of the great food streets of Melbourne (with Fitzroy Street, St Kilda and Lygon Street, Carlton) and busy around lunchtime on Sunday when the pavements are covered with groups eating brunch.
Fitzroy is the original home of Festivale's editorial offices. Since Festivale's inception Fitzroy has fallen afoul of a common city renewal, first the artists move in, then the infrastructure develops providing the necessities of life (book shops and cappuccino and organic food stores), and then the yuppies move in and the place goes downhill (in terms of character and ambiance) and uphill (in prices and dress code).
It's still a pretty good place to visit for Sunday brunch or coffee and cake. Drop in at Grub Street Bookshop, especially if you're into Celtic. Jasper's coffee is the stuff to imbibe, either on the footpath or out in the little courtyard. Or grab some beans to take home. Watch out for cafes throughout Melbourne who have Jaspers coffee in their machines. We especially like the decaf. Its a bit of a crime against nature to decaffinate coffee, but theirs is tasty.
Fitzroy's Brunswick Street is a block or so from Carlton Gardens in one direction, and another big foodie place, Lygon Street, Carlton is a couple of blocks in the other direction.
For the shopaholics, Smith Street Collingwood, a further couple of blocks from Carlton Gardens, running parallel to Brunswick Street, is something of a seconds and samples, direct factory outlet capital of Melbourne.
Getting there: Brunswick Street -Tram 112 West Preston from Collins Street
Smith Street -
Tram 86 Bundoora RMIT from Bourke Street
Nicholson Street (Carlton Gardens / Melbourne Museum)